The Chocolate Magician
written by Johannes Moehrle, photos by Alicia Dubuis
Paganel Chocolat in Geneva is the result of David Paganel’s total dedication to his passion: chocolate. This very #bimbleworthy shop stands out, even in Geneva, where a special savoir-faire in all things chocolate is a source of regional pride and one of the city’s trademarks. Amidst what can appear as a saturated sector, David Paganel has managed to draw on this great tradition and take it in new directions.
David Paganel’s chocolate shop and laboratory is the accomplishment of his “lifelong dream” and the result of a path that is far from typical. Starting off his career as a very in demand pastry chef in London, Zurich and finally Geneva, he first opened his business as a pastry shop in 1993. But in 2015, he decided to pivot and focus his activity solely around his greatest love, chocolate.
When speaking to him three words keep coming back: “simplicity, modernity, purity”. David insists that taste is what it is all about — which is why the design of the shop, the packaging of the chocolate and the chocolate itself are kept minimalist yet classy. The chocolate bars are packaged in simple paper wrappings with light colours, and the pralines are devoid of any complex decorations.
In Paganel’s shop, you won’t find any compromise, the flavours are complex and unique — including many that you wouldn’t have thought possible in chocolate. His chocolate bars, mostly made out of intense dark chocolate, are subtly combined with exotic flavours such as chilly, rose water, tea or ginger, and are named after cities — “Rio” in reference to the coloured carnival, or “Toulouse” for a chocolate that is decorated with violet petals — the city’s signature flower. Some names also give the chocolate an extra layer of meaning: eating a tea-flavoured piece of chocolate named “Prince Charles” adds a touch of humour to the overall experience. Paganel has also sells a hot chocolate powder, made out of the finest cocoa, and a chocolate spread “Paganella” (do not even think about comparing it to Nutella). All these creations are made on site in a chocolate laboratory where David Paganel is constantly looking to explore the multiple possibilities that chocolate offers.
But there is another side to David, where, with his magician’s touch, he can turn anything into chocolate. For him, chocolate is a form of art and he uses it to sculpt the most wonderful pieces. You really need to taste them to realise they are all made of chocolate: flowers, cigars, jewellery, puppets and much more besides!
It’s inspiring to see how David strives for excellence in his work. Unsurprisingly, he’s rewarded by the trust Genevans have in him and his products. After 28 years on the Rue de Carouge, first as a pastry shop, now as the area’s chocolaterie, it is undeniable that David, his smile and his famous moustache are part of the neighbourhood’s landscape.
I love everything about it, starting from the smell upon entering the shop, then seeing all products on display and having the master himself there to explain. And of course, the pleasure is extended when I eat his chocolate once I’m back home!
If you are in Geneva, visit his shop, you won’t regret it! In the meantime, you could always order a selection of his delicious chocolates online. Click through to my Bimble to find his page and website link.
