Shopping sustainably with Kalkidan Legesse

By Emily Rumsey

Here in the Bimble community, we tend to have a few traits in common: an eye for hidden gems, a fair amount of wanderlust and a knack for finding places that align with our values. We know that sustainable and ethical shopping is important, and with a little help from a Bimbler in the know, it can even be easy.

The way we buy is changing. The business practices of retailers are facing greater scrutiny from their customers than ever before. Bimblers want to make more environmentally and socially conscious choices when we shop, without losing the fun of finding that new piece to add to our wardrobes. Fortunately for us, there’s an answer; if you’re searching for a lesson in shopping ethically and sustainably, look no further than Sancho’s shop in Exeter.

I interviewed social entrepreneur, anti-racism consultant, and owner of Sancho’s, Kalkidan Legesse, to ask her about the foundational values of Sancho’s and what the world of clothes retailing might look like in the future.

Sancho’s started small with Kalkidan selling handwoven garments at university marketplaces. A burgeoning passion for ethical sourcing and a flair for business kindled an idea: to create a brand which is transparent, affordable and wholly sustainable. A few years and several pop-up stalls later, Sancho’s shop was born in 2014.

The shop incorporates ethics into every aspect of its business; Sancho’s stocks retailers who use natural, organic, vegan-friendly, and recycled materials, and who pay their workers a fair wage. Inside, there’s a unique collection of garments, from bright, punchy dungarees to cool, classic shirts and swimwear, plus beautifully crafted accessories and homewares. The procurement team works hard to find chic, modern clothing in inclusive sizes at a fair and affordable price.

You’ll find that prices at Sancho’s are not the static numbers we are used to seeing: this shop offers a range of prices for products such as period underwear, which can replace traditional single-use period products. Those who can afford to pay a higher price are encouraged to do so, which in turn allows others with a lower budget to purchase them too, making the environmental cost of menstruation lower for everyone. These principles go beyond the products too, as Sancho’s strives to create a company culture of self-reflection, accountability and willingness to change their ways of working to best fit their values.

Taking the first few steps towards more ethical shopping habits can feel overwhelming, but Kalkidan recommends thinking about three core questions when shopping for new clothes:

• Firstly, are the materials used natural or synthetic: will they degrade over time or live in landfill for years to come? Materials such as bamboo, cotton, wool, and lyocell are your friends here.
• Secondly, is the material used in the garment organic, thus ensuring better soil health, requiring less water, and having less of an environmental impact?
• And lastly, are the workers making these garments able to negotiate their rights and salaries?

Taken together, these tips can help you make informed choices when you’re buying new clothes, giving the planet (and your wallet!) a helping hand.

Before you hit the high street, take a look at what you already own. “Start in your wardrobe,” Kalkidan suggests, “if you don’t see things you like in your wardrobe, why?” Another option is to explore some charity shops and second-hand clothes apps like Shwap to avoid purchasing brand new items. Maybe give last year’s clothes at the back of your wardrobe another chance; style them in a way you’ve never done before and you might just find your new favourite outfit. If all else fails, search for clothes recycling centres near you, to avoid sending your old garments to landfill.

After considering the long term future of Sancho’s, Kalkidan realised there was an inherent conflict between the values of her business and the need to develop as a clothing retailer. Sancho’s has to sell more clothes in order to grow, but how could the shop navigate the huge issue of garment waste and continue to thrive? In answer, the Sancho’s team launched the Shwap app in June 2021, which “aims to catalogue everything that people own!” Kalkidan told me, with a laugh. This innovative new app wants to give customers “The ability to resell what you’re not wearing, the ability to repair things you really love but aren’t perfect anymore, [and] the ability to properly donate and recycle.”

For Kalkidan, the issue of equity and accountability goes beyond the shopping habits of the consumer. “I think companies need to acknowledge that it’s not okay for them to make profit from producing one thing, and then put all the responsibility of the entire model into the hands of the consumer,” she said. “I think there’s going to be a huge cultural shift in the next couple of years — or maybe sooner — understanding that, first of all, there’s no such thing as waste, and second of all, there’s value in things that already exist.”

If you want to invest in your community, in creativity, in unique, high quality, and ethically-made products, then small businesses like Sancho’s should be next on your “Places to Visit” Bimble. To explore other shops making strides towards a more sustainable future, you can find some of my favourite indie retailers here.

Photo credits to Harry Cooke and sanchosshop.com.