Lucca Wanderings — A hidden gem in Tuscany
Seeking all the trimmings of an instagrammable Italian escapade, but fearing the tourist traps of Rome, Florence or Venice, I find myself in Lucca. A quick train away from Pisa, Lucca’s untouched Renaissance walls frame a comforting picture of a quiet Tuscan town. Come Bimble with me as I share my favourite stops in this beautiful piece of old Italy.
A must when visiting Lucca is to climb the old city walls — originally built to resist full-scale sieges — today they are a popular exercise route for locals. It’s about 3 kilometres to walk the full circle and a great activity for the cooler hours of the day.
Each of the four main straits are lined with a different species of tree, complementing the rich green of the Tuscan hills and providing some much needed relief from the sun.
For a modest price you can also grab a bike from a number of rental stores around the walls, and if you’re feeling social you can even take a four-person tandem, or quadracycle, out for a spin.
After my morning stroll I pop down to Mara Mea, a delightful little cafe in the shade of the Piazza San Francesco. Inside it feels clean but rustic, boasting a mouthwatering display of homemade pastries. Scrabbling through half-remembered lines from Duolingo, I’m met with a sympathetic smile and I’m rewarded with some cannoli and a delightfully foamy cappuccino.
When it comes to sightseeing, Lucca is full of towers and at first it’s hard to decide which to climb — so I thought I’d try a few!
The Torre Guinigi, originally the house of one of Lucca’s wealthiest families, is Lucca’s medieval answer to London’s Sky Garden. Under the shade of centuries-old holm oaks you get a panoramic view of the whole city and the Tuscan hills surrounding it. At the top, however, it does get rather pokey and even first thing in the morning I found myself squeezing around fellow tourists to get a glimpse of the skyline.
My own favourite was the tower of Lucca’s Duomo di San Martino — arguably the most underrated view of the city and, neglected by other tourists in favour of the Guinigi or the Torre Del’Ore. Here, I could savour a broader view of the city all to myself.
In the heat of the day, the Duomo is the perfect respite from the unforgiving sun, and it is well worth a visit: virtually tourist-free, San Martino’s interior is reminiscent of the Duomo in Florence, though less ornate. Yet its starry blue ceiling and Renaissance artwork is truly a sight to behold.
Just about every street in Lucca has its own little deli. For a late-lunchtime snack, I helped myself to a spread of local cheese and cured meats followed by some delicious flat peaches — a must-try Italian delicacy. Afterwards, tired after my long morning of bimbling, I decided to pop back to my Airbnb for a siesta!
When I’d recovered, I couldn’t help myself but go shopping. Calzoleria Antoni on the Via Vittorio Veneto is also a must if you’re looking for Italian leather. Antonio, a kind gentleman, handcrafts everything from boots to belts and bags and all his leather is sourced locally in Tuscany.
If you’re in the mood for something more extreme, try Lucca’s Museo Della Torture. Pretty much what it says on the tin, the museum explores the devices of torture, various and gruesome, that were used within the city’s very walls. Best avoided if you’ve eaten beforehand…
Of course, you can’t have an Italian holiday without gelato. As I found out the hard way, ice creams are best enjoyed towards the end of the day when it’s cool enough for you to have time to eat it before it melts all down your front. In Lucca gelaterias come a dime a dozen, but a special favourite is the Caffè Casali on the corner of the Piazza San Michele. A store in three parts, they sell gelato and pastries on one side and tobacco on the other, with a full bar in action for the long evenings. Their Amarena is to die for, ideally followed by a cocktail of choice.
In the evenings, the Piazza dell’Anfiteatro is an essential stop. Originally the site of a Roman Amphitheatre, locals have built their homes around its walls, encouraging a less gruesome kind of entertainment. The Piazza is full of places to eat and drink, and there’s always a charming group of jazz musicians who set up shop in the evenings.
For a quieter dining experience you only need to step outside the old amphitheatre’s walls to find Locanda Tre Merli — The Three Blackbirds. I had quite possibly the tastiest Lasagna ever — no kidding — and I’d definitely recommend their tiramisu. A three-course meal + wine comes up to about 30 Euros per person, but the flavours seriously surpass the price tag.
All in all Lucca’s a perfect place to visit — though maybe in the cooler months of the year (I was not prepared for the Tuscan summer heat). The locals are charming, the tourists are few, and with the walled city surrounded by the Tuscan hills on all sides, it truly is the best of both worlds. Even after a day’s worth of bimbling each new turn still feels full of surprises.
Check out my Bimble for the full list of Lucca’s highlights here.
All photos by Tariq Sinnetamby.
If you have a story you’d like to share about a great little place or other bimbling experiences, get in touch with us at hello@bimble.com.
