Hold onto your Handlebars: a homely, heartfelt experience on St Michael’s Street
by Rosie Owen
Perched at the end of St Michael’s Street and tucked away from the bustle of Oxford’s Cornmarket Street, lies a breath of independent fresh air. Making the most of the City Council’s pedestrianisation scheme, The Handle Bar adorns its shop-face with a flooding of flora as its terrace spills out onto the street. The cafe’s commitment to sustainability as the bees buzz on their terrace sings so loudly that even passers-by will hear that The Handlebar is a cafe with a conscience. Nestled between the steelier visages of nearby chains, it is unsurprising that when I first stumbled across the Handlebar, their terrace was filled with brunchers who, like me and the rest of the Bimble community, were after something with that special dusting of authenticity.
I couldn’t help but feel like I’d roamed into some sort of Mediterranean side street as the sandy-bricked spire of the Wesley Memorial Church pushes itself into the sky in the background. The Handlebar positions itself at the heart of the community of independent businesses along the street. For me, the cafe felt, and as a proud regular now, still feels a local, communal space that foregrounds experience over instant gratification.
A recent post on their Instagram reminded me of their neighbourhood spirit. Their kind words celebrating the post-lockdown revival of Bike Zone, the next-door egg-yolk yellow cycle shop, are not hollow. The two independents seem to be as thick as thieves. It was with a contented grin that, whilst peering over my turmeric latte, I watched the staff of both shops interact on a friendly first-name basis and customers filtering seamlessly between. Oxford at its best: bikes plus brunch.
That word in the caption, “friend”, sums up my first trip to the Handlebar, which has graced us with its presence since 2015. I was greeted by a wide smile and an inviting sweep of the arm belonging to sales assistant Ruta, who brimmed with excitement about the shop’s potential now restrictions had been lifted. With pride, she talked me through their vast assortment of goods from the traditional — classic brunch remains unbeatable — to the experimental — I didn’t realise rhubarb pannacotta could be vegan?! The spices for the spiced lattes are, (‘of course’, according to Ruta) hand-mixed and their, not one, not two, but three types of brownies all boast the label of Gluten-Free. Fast-forward a few months and you can imagine the scenes of joy when I returned from one of my Handlebar outings bearing a (recyclable) box of banana brownies for a friend’s 19th whose dietary requirement often leaves him empty-handed at celebrations.
But the Handlebar is not just a cafe. At a loss on a Friday or Saturday night? Instead of heading home with your tail between your legs after the Wetherspoons’ bouncers tell you there’s no room at the inn, rejoice. Choose the warm, bubbly (and bike-decorated) atmosphere of tapas night and perhaps grab yourself a homemade coffee liqueur or even a crema di limoncello. I can attest: you feel undoubtedly more ‘main character’ when you’re surrounded by an atmospheric glow and fragrant cooking aromas than sticky tables and ‘2 pitchers for £12’.
Not only is your environmental conscience clear — The Handlebar pledges to cut back on packaging — but a trip to this Oxford gem also gives back to the local area. Beer? The Oxford Brewery. Coffee? The Missing Bean, Oxford coffee roasters. Cinnamon buns? Pobi Bakery, local and artisan. Even the milk is sourced from a small family dairy (Brades Farm), although oat, pea or hemp alternatives are always available if whole milk just doesn’t cut it. The Handlebar looks after the Oxford independent community with just as much care as they do their customers: hot water bottles are at hand as soon as someone shows the remote sign of a shiver on the terrace. Want to bring the Handlebar home? Browse their house plants on sale, or why not invest in a cup and saucer with their exclusive bike design created by a local potter, Featherstone Pottery. My green-tea mug, a birthday gift, is turning into a permanent feature of my bedside table.
If you (like me) end up down the rabbit-hole of tasty food-spo that is The Handlebar’s Instagram page (@handlebaroxford) you will see that they are not all that far from the Bimbler mentality. They proudly post news of Riverman Records’ reopening, the Jericho vinyl store, and frequent tributes are made to those who provide the cafe with their products and ingredients. Ruta, from behind the pastry-laden counter, was able to list off 10 independent delis, cafes, and restaurants in Oxford worth checking out (Za’atar Bake is next on my list!) The Handlebar and its staff really do seem to know a great, little place when they see one…
…perhaps that’s why it’s one of my great, little places which has to belong on Bimble.
Find the rest of my favourite spots in Oxford over at my Bimble profile here.
