The ‘Dutch Berlin’. A guide to Amsterdam’s coolest neighborhood — Noord
by Molly Field
Central Amsterdam is instantly recognisable to most; the sprawling terraces, the endless stream of bikes, the winding canals, the uniformed houses, the tulip fields and (Mum, stop reading) the coffee shops. Everyone’s written about the area, including me which you can read here, and though I love this swarming centre, endlessly full of little pockets to explore, a little sail across the river into Amsterdam-Noord opens up a side of the city often forgotten. I like to call it ‘Dutch Berlin’ and here is my guide to making the most out of it.
First things first, getting over the river and to Amsterdam-Noord. Luckily, you can hop on a public ferry departing from Amsterdam-Centraal station every 15 minutes and best of all, a ride is completely free (London’s public transport could never…) On sunny days, standing out on the deck is completely refreshing, just watch out for the cyclists that zoom off the minute you dock on the other side!
Our first stop in Berlin, sorry, Amsterdam-Noord involves a drink and bite to eat at Café de Ceuvel, a deliciously bohemian riverside spot with a keen focus on plant-based eating and sustainability. The cafe sprawls itself across a former shipyard and is teeming with wildlife, winding boardwalks, good food, local art and regular cultural programming. Events have previously included fringe festival screenings, performances of The Odyssey, mindfulness workshops and flamenco lessons — something for everyone (even if you aren’t completely on board with getting out of your seat for a baile).
With a hefty portion of bitterballen in your stomach (a Dutch delicacy of thickened stew coated in breadcrumbs, lekker!), I recommend trying out one of two spots super close by; either the WONDR experience or the Eye Filmmuseum. The former invites you to experience the ‘art of play’ through a series of immersive, candy-coloured (and often candy-filled) rooms — perfect to lose yourself in for a little while, and get some good shots for Instagram. The latter is the National Museum for Film and Moving Image, a very visually impressive building on the waterfront, all geometricism and sharp lines. Detailing Dutch cinematic history, as well as the potential future of the industry, the museum is continually pioneering emerging filmmakers and hosting a revolving-door selection of exciting exhibitions. As an aspiring media creative myself, I find myself completely engrossed in every exhibition I see here and often spend the rest of my day in little cinematic daydreams.
Taking a walk even further north along the canals, you will reach one of my favourite places for lunch in Noord: Stewart & Sally. My friends and I stumbled upon this cafe one very windy day, all tired and hungry, and were completely revived by its wholesome selection of food (all very well-priced, too). The vegetarian platter included some homemade hummus wraps, fresh salad and wholesome soup all for under €10..!
Next up is a little treasure (with a whole host more treasures inside) that may take some planning to visit: Ij-Hallen Market This flea market is the biggest, and arguably most prolific, in all of Europe and occurs bi-monthly. While a little overwhelming (when I say the biggest, I mean it) there are so many oddities to discover; my friends and I have treated ourselves to everything from vintage hip flasks to leather bomber jackets, and from original Barbie dolls to even some homemade lavender soap.
NDSM-Werf will be, maybe objectively, the pièce de résistance of your meanderings around Noord. Much like Café de Ceuvel, this street-art haven roots itself in a former shipyard and boasts countless attractions like STRAAT (the very impressive national street-art museum), a sprawling bunker of artists workshops and stalls, numerous bohemian eateries and NDSM-Fuse (contemporary art gallery). Even a simple walk around the area is completely enthralling; on my recent visit, my friends and I encountered numerous street artists scrawling effortlessly across the concrete in vibrant pinks and neon greens. I would personally recommend grabbing some dinner and drinks at Pllek, a continually-buzzing beach bar with good cocktails and even better views of Central Amsterdam across the water. The bar often hosts festivals, concerts and open-air cinemas, too.
Once you are finished with lying on the warm sand, cocktail in hand (if you ever can be finished with something like that), I think it might be time to visit my final stop on this whirlwind tour of Noord: Sexyland. This is not a euphemism. Sexyland is a cultural clubhouse with 365 days worth of exciting programming, all organised by local artists. Events run throughout the day, such as art markets and free barbershops, but electrify during the nighttime with intimate gigs, queer club nights and album release parties. A celebratory, neon-lit, diverse and experimental place I have always had a good time attending, and recommend everyone to visit.
Noord is sprawling, busy and exciting — more than enough for a weekend’s worth (depending on how lost you get in the flea market) and a real haunt for locals. Check out my bimble placelist here for more curiosities to discover in Dutch Berlin, sorry again, Amsterdam-Noord: spots include open-air venue Tolhuistin, cafe Public Space, and independent cinema FC Hyena. For now though, as you get a little crazy (or sexy if you so wish) under the neon lights I’ll consider that my job — done.
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