24 Hours in Edinburgh
by Priya Raj
In contrast to my hometown of Glasgow which, said with total affection of course, can slightly give off a post-soviet energy, Edinburgh certainly looks like a capital city, as far as surface appearances go. Not only does it house Scotland’s arguably most important cultural site, Edinburgh Castle, but it’s unexpectedly a major financial epicentre; unexpectedly because it doesn’t feel like it at all. In a lot of ways, Edinburgh is more small town than big city. It’s important to note though, that this charming city of old is very clearly becoming one of the world’s major melting pots — attracting students & professionals from all corners of the world. Apparent in the recent addition of certain world-famous brands like The W Hotel to their roster of places to be. So, in the ever wise words of Miss Molly-Mae, we all have the same 24 hours— and so this is how I’d spend mine in the city of Edinburgh.
“In a lot of ways, Edinburgh is more small town than big city.”
Arriving at Waverley train station will put you slap-bang in the middle of Princes Street in the city’s New Town district. On your right will be the Balmoral Hotel housing the glorious Palm Court, in which they host Edinburgh’s (alleged) best afternoon tea.
One of many Harry Potter references in this city is that JK Rowling alleged she finished the Harry Potter series while staying in a suite in this hotel. She left a bust of Hermes in her room, upon which she inscribed “JK Rowling finished writing Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows in this room (552) on 11th Jan 2007” — and the room has since been known as the J.K. Rowling Suite. The bust still sits in the room, though now surrounded by a glass case. A far cry from the dribs & drabs of back-street coffee shops where it’s said she had written “parts” of the previous books in Edinburgh’s Old Town.
Speaking of Old Town, and starting with the most important meal of the day — is the city’s answer to Elan Cafe; a pink paradise just off of the city’s landmark “Royal Mile”, Laila’s. It is a brunch-y Middle Eastern fusion joint with proven classics like French Toast, and Levantine faves like shakshuka.
Edinburgh is a foodie’s paradise so a walk in between meals is a must, and there’s nowhere better than the Royal Mile, which runs between Edinburgh Castle & another notable historical site; Holyrood House. Just to be transparent, the distance isn’t exactly 1 mile but you’ll find plenty of cute jaunts along this stretch, selling traditional Scottish exports; cashmere, wool, whiskey, shortbread & tablet. My favourite is an all-year-round Christmas shop guarded by 2 nutcrackers — a great place to buy an Edinburgh-themed souvenir. Everything in Edinburgh is fairly walkable but there are hills & cobbled streets to look out for on this side of town — so sky-high Louboutins? Not a good idea.
If all that walking has made you a bit peckish, you’ll find every cuisine you can fathom in Edinburgh. However I don’t think you can go wrong with Steak Frites, and you’ll find the best at Chez Jules — 2 courses will only set you back £9.90 [yes, you read that correctly]. It speaks to the kindness & hospitality that Scottish folks are known for. Upon your entry, you’ll be given a variation of hors d’oeuvres, as if you were visiting the house of an old friend — which is exactly what Edinburgh feels like.
Another [personal] favourite is Taco Libre, “owned by Mexicans, cooked by Mexicans” — the perfect opportunity to support a POC-owned business, and again very reasonably priced, as are many venues due to the large cohort of students occupying the city during term-time.
Edinburgh, unsurprisingly, is not short of places to wet your whistle. A firm favourite for an afternoon pick-me-up is a spot tucked inside the Edinburgh Grand hotel on St Andrew Square — The Register Club. The walls are clad in wooden panelling and play to the “old world” glamour Edinburgh is loved for. I am admittedly quite bougie, so this is exactly my cup of tea. If you’re looking for something a little more lively, a stone’s throw away is Rose Street Garden, an unassuming spot & one of my favourite places to take friends visiting from outside Scotland. From here, if you’re a shopaholic you can hop along to George Street or the new St James Quarter; a one-stop-shop for everything you’d need for a day (or few) in Edinburgh; accommodation, eateries, shopping, entertainment, bars — you name it.
A defining quality of Edinburgh is the stark contrast between the different areas of the city. “Old Town” with its cobbled streets & “New Town” as a sort of cosmopolitan Mecca. Bruntsfield is a little out of the way & more residential but just as trendy, and super underrated — though I’d recommend this for a weekend rather than just 24 hours, but granted, you’ll be back. As well as a trip to the shoreside town of Queensferry. A short journey will make you feel like you’re in San Francisco [though I can’t guarantee the weather will match up] and it’s super easy to reach. Get on a 43 bus from outside the train station and keep your camera at the ready because you are not prepared for the sites on the journey.
Where Edinburgh doesn’t match up to certain qualities of other capital cities, it excels in others. The weather [usually] lacks, but the people here beam brighter than the sun. Perhaps I’m just a proud Scot, or maybe there’s something in the air. I suppose you won’t know until you see it for yourself.
Check out the full list of recommendation at the 24 hours in Edinburgh placelist below!
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